Natural Edge Winged Platter

Just finished this on the weekend. Those spindles I did for the chair last week inspired me to do some turning. A natural edge winged platter. This piece of wood has a lot of what is called bark inclusion, giving it quite a dramatic texture. This likely happened by disease, insect infestation, or a combination of both. I am not sure what the wood is but I was told when I bought it, it is from Hokkaido. Judging by the weight, density, and coloration of the wood I would guess it is Zelkova (native to Japan and known here as keyaki).

No process pictures here this time, just some good ol’ fashioned digital pictures.

Plate with stand. You can’t see from here but the stand has ebony hinges I made. With the stand I realized the plate can be illuminated from behind and light will come through the bark inclusion cracks.

Front view.

The bottom shot of the foot and bowl.

Close up shot.

Doing the sanding.

All chucked up on my lathe with the outrigger jig attached.

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Cantilevered Conoid Chair

I finished my Conoid Chair last weekend. This was a very satisfying project to do. After I completed the electrical and table saw upgrade in my shop I wanted to build something special on my new saw. I immediately decided this was the one. I started it back in mid-June and plugged away at it slowly. So overall I would say it was not a huge investment in time from a single board of wood to a finished chair. Maybe 60 hours. And if you were doing a set of them, the amount of time could be greatly reduced per chair.

This will be a bit of a long post as I didn’t post anything while I was doing it. So today I will post it all in one go. You can also get my drawings done for the chair. Basically there are none to be found on the internet. I drew them based on pictures on the net and chairs in my house.

This is my first attempt at this chair so it is basically a work in progress. That is to say the angles and sculpting can always be tweeked a little here and there. Currently this chair (and my drawings) are 81º on the back and the seat is a 4º rise. (So it is not 90º to the back. If it were it would have a 9º rise.) Some of the pictures of the chair on the net show quite a recline so maybe 80º or even 79º would work well. Also the dimensioned stock I used was a little bulkier than my drawings. I think my finished product could be a little more trim than it is but overall it looks good proportionately.

The bridle joints have to be perfect to work well, especially since it is on an offset angle. Here I am showing the back legs on the two feet set at 81º.

Close up of the bridle joint. I trimmed this stock down after this photo.

Before gluing the legs to the feet I trimmed back the front, leading edge of the legs on the table saw using a stop block so I could finish the curved cut on the band-saw. You have to be careful of where you place your stop block when doing it on a table saw. Because (the circular blade) what you see on top as you push your stock through and what you can’t see below have very different cutting positions.

Here you can see the basic profile of the feet and legs. Look closely at the left end of the leg lying on its side. You can’t see it fully but it is tapered on the back edge from the top, down to 10mm above where the seat joins the back leg.

Now that I have the feet and legs roughly complete I can move on to the seat. The stock I was using was 60mm thick so I had to do a lot of planing to flatten it and get it down to 50mm.

Hard work but somebodies gotta do it.

After I got the seat stock down to thickness I could begin on the joinery. For this bridle joint I cut a matching angle (81º) on the back edge of the seat and set up the seat with a supporting back on my table saw to cut the shouldered joint. The legs were done with a jig, router, and brass template guide. Sorry no picture was taken. Again I have to stress that the joint has to be perfect to work well. Any play in this joint is unacceptable. The reason why it is shouldered is because it is not a through joint.

Here is a close up of the joint in all its glory.

Nice fit. there will be no pins or wedges to hold it together, which is why it needs to be a perfect mating surface.

Now I am on to making a template for the sculpting. I am using French curves and a steel rule for this.

It was a big, heavy piece of bubinga.

With the chair dry assembled I slipped the seat template over the legs to draw the pattern and use it as a cutting template. Not shown in any photos but for the seat sculpting I not only used hand planes but employed a hand grinder with an Arbortech attachment. To get the curved line established I simply followed the template with my Arbortech power plane.

That is a lot of hogging out to do.

Getting there.

The bottom of the seat. Notice the fluted surface I left just behind the joint. A little added support as the bridle joint butts up against it. And it looks kind of cool I thought.

First full dry assembly.

At this point the seat, legs, and feat are glued up and I am now fitting the top rail. The joinery for this is a wedged mortise and tenon. Wedged tenons are a bit nerve racking because you can’t test them. And if they fail (wedge breaks, doesn’t seat properly, etc) while going together they can be a heck of a thing to pull apart.

The top rail is now sized, cut and fit correctly.

There are eight spindles I turned on my lathe. I am using Monarch Birch, native to Japan. One thing to note when gluing up is the angle. In order to get good pressure down onto the joint you will need to use wedges otherwise you will get lifting on one side of the joint.

After all the hand sanding was done I applied shellac to finish it. I love shellac. It is a little old-time but it is so nice to work with. For years I used oil based tung and linseed, and poly urethane’s for finishing. But they take too long to cure and smell noxious for many days. Shellac on the other hand smells fruity, is 100% natural, and it dries when the ethanol evaporates. I just mix the amount I need and am done in a day.

A majestic chair.

I have always loved the design of this chair. And I gotta say it looks great beside my dining table.

You can get a bitmap of drawings for this chair from the link below. But be aware that the dimensions for the stock are smaller. I think I ended up using 40mm for the feet and 45mm for the legs, 50mm for the seat tapered down to 35mm. Whatever you feel you can get away with while maintaining a proportionately elegant look.

Conoid Chair

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Table Saw Project Complete

Another project I can cross off the list. This was my table saw project. After my last project – kitchen cabinet – I told myself I won’t be making anything until I upgrade my  table saw. Unfortunately for me that meant I would have to do an electrical upgrade in my workshop as well as I only had one 100v line coming into the shop from when the house was built 12 years ago. So to do this correctly I would need to pull a 3 wire, 2 pole, plus ground, down to a sub-panel I installed in the shop 30 meters away from the house.

So I finally got this finished this past weekend. It took about two months working on days off intermittently. I wanted to get it done by the end of March and I almost made it but because I can only do it on weekends I got it complete April 11.

In Japan they do ground a little differently than we do in North America. They often use the neutral wire. So for this I did it the way we usually do in in N.A. When I completed the hookup I tested for ground by connecting one pole out of the two and the ground. If it came up to 100v I was good for ground.  Connecting the 2 poles to my tester also came up good to 200v.

After I completed the hookup I plugged in my new table saw purchased last month and fired it up.

Below are three pics of the new saw.

Out of the box.

With extension wings and router table insert.

I was lucky my Bench Dog router table is the same size.

 

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Table Saw and Electrical Upgrade

After my last project (kitchen cabinets) I told myself that my next project was going to be a new table saw. This was a little more involved than just purchasing a new saw though. The problem was I only had 30a/100v electric service into my shop. I could have stayed with a 100v saw in the form of an hybrid saw but I couldn’t see the point of upgrading to a new saw if I was still going to be using an underpowered one. So that meant if I wanted to get a proper cabinet saw I would have to upgrade my electric service to 200v. Something I had been putting off for too long for the reason that it was a pain in the neck to do.

It took a little while to do as I had to brush up on house wiring, etc., and was short on free time. So I did a little studying, got all the supplies I needed and started work.

The criteria for this project was a 30a/200v electric power feed from my main house breaker to a sub-panel in my workshop from which I could run 100v/200v power lines to my equipment. I ran a 2.6mm three wire copper plus a ground for about 25 meters from the main breaker panel to the sub though conduits and junction boxes. The wire leaves the  house so I had to install a new ground as well.

The main breaker panel in my house is centrally located on the first floor. The distance to the outside wall I need to get to is about 3 meters. There is already an existing conduit from the panel to the outside but I was not able to use it.

This job is not yet complete but below are three pics I have. I would say at this point I am about 70% complete. Once everything is in place I will ask an electrician to come over and do the hookup just to make sure everything right.

Here is the wire coming out of the house into a junction box, into a PVC conduit, and then a second junction box.

This is just beyond the front edge of the house, just before where the wire goes down a stairwell. I managed to tap into an existing junction box from the opposite side of the wall and feed it through a hole in the concrete.

And here I have added a second conduit and fed the wire down through the existing hole in the concrete.

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