- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Category Archives: Making a bone Nut
There have been so many little jobs to complete once I got to the neck. A lot of them not necessarily related to woodworking and hence there has been a lot of schooling going on.
In the last four days I got two major tasks complete; making and installing the nut and installing the bridge. This means I am getting pretty darn close to completing.
This is a bone nut blank. Here I cut it to length with a hack saw.
Next I want to get that 16″ radius arc pencil mark on it.
To hog it off down to the line I took it over to my 12″ disc sander. Then I rounded over the back by hand and did some detail sanding to final shape.
Here I marked out the string spacing. The 1st and 6th are about 3mm from the edge.
Then I used a fine nut file to mark the grooves. Now they are still shallow and have room for adjusting the depth.
I drilled the peg holes according to the nut string spacing. I drilled with a 4mm bit as this is the smallest diameter on my pegs.
Next I line it up the distance with this jig I made. Flip the jig around and it measures from the 12 to the nut. From the nut to the saddle is about 2 times the distance from the nut to the 12th. I say about because different strings stretch a little differently making scale adjustment necessary.
Once I have placement figured out I drill down through the first and sixth peg holes. Well actually I drilled one first, anchored it and then drilled the second. Here you can see the bridge anchored in position.
Then I made a caul to fit over top the bridge. Two holes match the bridge so it can also be anchored down with the bridge when it is glued in position.
The other five holes drilled in the caul are for downward pressure in case there is any lifting. With 4mm wood anchors installed in the holes I can then screw 4mm screws into the caul applying downward pressure onto the bridge. This was not so necessary for the center but is recommended on the ends of the bridge.
After a few hours I removed the clamp.
Most of the books and online resources I read use C-clamps, etc for gluing on the bridge. I got the idea for this self-contained clamping device off of youtube. I thought it was brilliant and error free. And I can tell you it worked very well.