- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Category Archives: Tools
Another project I can cross off the list. This was my table saw project. After my last project – kitchen cabinet – I told myself I won’t be making anything until I upgrade my table saw. Unfortunately for me that meant I would have to do an electrical upgrade in my workshop as well as I only had one 100v line coming into the shop from when the house was built 12 years ago. So to do this correctly I would need to pull a 3 wire, 2 pole, plus ground, down to a sub-panel I installed in the shop 30 meters away from the house.
So I finally got this finished this past weekend. It took about two months working on days off intermittently. I wanted to get it done by the end of March and I almost made it but because I can only do it on weekends I got it complete April 11.
In Japan they do ground a little differently than we do in North America. They often use the neutral wire. So for this I did it the way we usually do in in N.A. When I completed the hookup I tested for ground by connecting one pole out of the two and the ground. If it came up to 100v I was good for ground. Connecting the 2 poles to my tester also came up good to 200v.
After I completed the hookup I plugged in my new table saw purchased last month and fired it up.
Below are three pics of the new saw.
Out of the box.
With extension wings and router table insert.
I was lucky my Bench Dog router table is the same size.
I have been doing a bunch of small projects recently so not much has been posted here lately. One ongoing project I have been doing is teaching myself AutoCad. So here is an exported bitmap of a hand plane I designed. It is based on a Holtey or Brese infill smoothing plane.
Here is a link to the full size bitmap
Frankly I’m not quite sure what this part is called. Though I am sure it has a name. So for the sake of posterity I simply call it the drawer innards.
The other day I got the mortice and tenon joints squeaky clean. That is fitting nicely on the cheeks. The tenons also fit well. So after that was complete I needed to cut some boards and fit them inside for the drawer runners to be attached. These boards will be installed with dowel pins.
Here I have the main structure clamped up so I can measure the correct distance between the inside of the drawers. This is the length of my runners.
Need to make sure the cheeks of the tenon seat properly…
inside and out.
When I have my measurement I cut some boards to length, square them up and put some dowel holes in them. I use 8mm dowels.
Then I do the inside.
Here is a quick shot of my dowel jig. I use the Joint Genie. I like this dowel jig a lot. I have even made entire pieces using only this.
It is a little expensive but it is the best dowel jig I have found.
Ready for installing.
Here’s a great video with Garrett Hack showing us how simple and easy it is to sharpen our plane blades freehand. I have had the pleasure to meet him a couple of times and I can say that he is a great guy and an excellent teacher. He is the person that got me into hand planes. I now use them for all my woodworking projects. I simply can’t do without them.
Garrett Hack on Sharpening Plane Blades