- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Category Archives: Light Box
Just had to do one last thing to complete the installation of the LEDs in the boxes. This was wiring the power lead cord to a convenient location.
This is how the installed light looks. You can see the power cord goes down to a hole with a stop block holding it in place.
Here you can see the installed light and the 10mm hole drilled into the bottom of the box.
Close up of the 10mm hole. The AC adapter coaxial connector fit quite snugly into the hole.
With the AC power adapter plugged into it.
Lights. Camera. Action.
Found some nice light fixtures for the boxes in Akihabara the other night. Couple of things were swirling around in my head when I went searching. I wanting a switched LED was the main thing. This was going to be hard though considering we are 100v here and they are 120 over in Canada, where the boxes will be soon. So I thought I would have to give up on AC and go with DC. When I saw what was available I thought DC was out. And then I saw these units that are AC 100-120v with no switch. I decided on them as a compromise but still they are nice and quite suitable.
So this is the LED unit with an AC adapter consuming 1.5A to power 12 5050 LEDs.
I installed a strip of wood with holes to tie wrap the LED if necessary. FYI the LED strip is fastened with double sided tape.
And here are the lights installed.
Yesterday I sanded to thickness and fit the lids into the glued up boxes. The lids are a shouldered lap joint so it is important to get a snug fit. For that the lids are glued ever so slightly too big and then are planed down to size using a small size shoulder plane.
My method for gluing up the lids. The opening is for a sheet of poly that will filter the light source.
After the glue has dried and cured I use a table saw to cut the rabbet and then use a shoulder plane to get it to size. Each shaving is about 1/10th of a millimeter (0.1mm). As well I use my shooting board to square up the ends to the sides. Pictured is my small size Veritas Shoulder plane (love it) and in the background is my #4 Lie Nielsen Smoothing plane.
All the lid fronts are book-matched. And as a matter of fact even the sides are book-matched. The backs I didn’t worry about because there are three pieces for each back.
Tonight I will go to Akihabara to find a light I can put inside the box. I am thinking of battery powered LED on a string. We’ll see.
For many tears I relied on machinery to do the job for me. Still do but more and more I am using hand tools so that means I need a few tools to help me.
I threw this shooting board together last night. And frankly I don’t know how I ever managed without one. Every shop should have one of these simple jigs that help us to get that joint just right. Makes a big difference.
There are better designs on the internet but for now this will do.