- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Category Archives: Fusako’s Table
Well I finally got to glue up the rest of the skirt. As I already had the main section done all that was left was the end section.
Here I have the clamps in place and the glue applied. As you can see I had to bring it into square a little with the diagonal clamp.
And the same for the drawer. Checking for square.
Next up is the table top.
Finally got around to doing some work worthy of posting this past weekend. I made the drawer, glued it up and started gluing up the table in sections, as well as installing the drawer tip stop.
The drawer will be one long drawer that can be opened form either side. Here I am sizing up the sides.
Here is the jointed and sized stock. I ran into a small problem with the drawer fronts. After sitting around for a month or two they twisted. I had about 1″ of thickness but after I got the twist out I was down to about 5/8ths. So that meant a pinned rabbet joint was out and I had to go with box joints. Not so bad but a box joint compromises grain integrity on the drawer fronts in my opinion.
Here is the drawer with the box joints cut.
Checking for size and fit.
With the bottom inserted. I am using 5mm birch plywood.
After completing the drawer I glued up the ends of the table in sections. I have found that in almost all things gluing masking tape is a godsend when it comes to cleanup.
Cleanup is a simple matter of removing the tape. No sanding is needed to remove ugly glue stains.
Fitting the drawer I have to do some hand planing.
I like to get this line nice and straight across for a good drawer front profile.
It is looking good but the final fit will be when the entire table is glued up.
And finally I installed the drawer tipping stop. For the runners I glue and screw but for the tip stop I usually just screw.
I will try and glue the last section of the table together before the weekend. Hopefully.
This table will be used mainly for kitchen prep in my mother-in-laws kitchen. It will have a drawer by request so I am making a single drawer that opens from two sides.
Here I have done a dry check or a dry clamp. That is without the glue. I found on this the dowel pins were a little long so I needed to file them down a bit with a rasp. Always remember to round them over after adjusting so they fit into the holes problem free. Nothing worse then not being able to fit the pins into the holes after the glue is applied.
Here I have fit the drawer front in so you have an idea of what it will look like. I always like to maintain grain integrity. Looks great.
Then I put a kerf in the tenons to accept a wedge. Much later though.
About half way down the tenon.
And here I am gluing up the center structure only. No legs are permanently attached yet. The diagonal clamp is to pull it to square even though it bounced back after the clamps came off.
Frankly I’m not quite sure what this part is called. Though I am sure it has a name. So for the sake of posterity I simply call it the drawer innards.
The other day I got the mortice and tenon joints squeaky clean. That is fitting nicely on the cheeks. The tenons also fit well. So after that was complete I needed to cut some boards and fit them inside for the drawer runners to be attached. These boards will be installed with dowel pins.
Here I have the main structure clamped up so I can measure the correct distance between the inside of the drawers. This is the length of my runners.
Need to make sure the cheeks of the tenon seat properly…
inside and out.
When I have my measurement I cut some boards to length, square them up and put some dowel holes in them. I use 8mm dowels.
Then I do the inside.
Here is a quick shot of my dowel jig. I use the Joint Genie. I like this dowel jig a lot. I have even made entire pieces using only this.
It is a little expensive but it is the best dowel jig I have found.
Ready for installing.