- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Monthly Archives: September 2013
This past weekend I got some work done on the mortice and tenons, those venerable time tested joints used by all for centuries.
The first order of business was to cut the mortices in the legs. I have chosen to do through tenons so I had to alternate their spacing so they wouldn’t come into each other.
Here I mark the legs so I know their position.
My router setup for routing the mortices. I am using a Leigh FMT jig.
One set done.
Both sides done. Here you can see the alternate spacing. The tenons are shouldered so they will be strong.
After I have cut the mortices I need to square them up on the ends.
Here I use a rasp file to round the tenons. Of course this could have been cut on the FMT jig for a perfect fit but with the through tenons being so long I was getting movement on the boards. So in my nervousness I cut the cheeks of the tenons on the table saw and the mortices on the FMT jig. Maybe next time, eh.
Checking for square.
One apron done.
Close up of the alternate spacing.
Now that I have done all the noisy work during the weekend day I might be able to work quietly during the weeknights fitting the joints after I get home from my day job.
Here’s a great video with Garrett Hack showing us how simple and easy it is to sharpen our plane blades freehand. I have had the pleasure to meet him a couple of times and I can say that he is a great guy and an excellent teacher. He is the person that got me into hand planes. I now use them for all my woodworking projects. I simply can’t do without them.
Garrett Hack on Sharpening Plane Blades
I have just started a new project. This one will be a kitchen prep table for my mother-in-law. A while ago she bought a table she could do prep on and eat at on occasion. It was a typical “all wood” table. In the center of the table was a inset that looked very much like a piece of marble for hot pots, etc. Soon after she bought it though she placed a hot pot on it and it bubbled, twisted and burned. She asked me to look at it and when I did I told her it was plastic and the table was basically a plastic laminate or something cheap like that. So I said I would make her something all wood with a real piece of marble in the center. Needless to say she is thrilled.
I will be using bubinga for this table with a piece of marble inset into the center.
Here I have the aprons and legs made. There will be two drawers on two opposing sides. For those I rip-cut the apron with my thin kerf blade to maintain the grain and then cross cut out the drawer fronts so the drawer fronts will have a nice continuous grain effect with the apron. Then I glue the aprons back up without the drawer fronts.
A little better view of the apron. I have also cut the cheeks of the tenons.
This has nothing to do with woodworking but I thought why not. On occasion I am known to do a little graphic art so I thought I would post this one here and offer these decal sets for purchase. Quite honestly these are very difficult to come by. I searched high and low and made several inquiries but came up empty handed. So I made them.
Here I have complete frame decal sets for a 2002-2003 Trek Elite 9.8. The color combination decides the year. Shown is the color combo for the years 2002/3. The design of these decals was used from 2002-2005. However I only have them in the shown color used in 2002 and 2003.
Printed on a commercial laser printer, the decal paper used is all weather, water, cold/heat (－20℃～＋80℃) and UV (high lightfast rating) proof. The thickness of the decal is 0.07mm. The decal is free cut, not laser cut.
Trek clear coats all their decals after applying so it is recommended you do the same.
If you are interested please go to
Downloads to make a digital purchase and I will send you a set in the snail mail. Worldwide postage included.