- Bindings and Purflings
- Body Joint Dovetail Mortise
- Bracing the Back Plate
- Charles Fox Side Bender
- Conoid Chair
- Electrical Upgrade
- End Graft
- Fitting the Back
- Fitting the Top
- Fleischman/Stevens Universal Binding Jig
- Free Downloads
- French Polishing
- Fusako's Table
- General Woodworking
- Gluing the Back Plate
- Gluing the Body
- Guitar Repair
- Headstock Veneer
- Heel Cap and Neck Glue-Up
- Kitchen Prep Table
- Light Box
- Making a bone Nut
- Martin Style Pyramid Bridge
- Neck Joint Jig
- Plate Glue-up
- Plate Templates
- Saddle Slot
- Shaping the Neck
- Side Bending
- The Fretboard
- Thicknessing and Rosette
- Trek 9.8 Decal Sets
- Wood Step Ladder
Monthly Archives: November 2013
This table will be used mainly for kitchen prep in my mother-in-laws kitchen. It will have a drawer by request so I am making a single drawer that opens from two sides.
Here I have done a dry check or a dry clamp. That is without the glue. I found on this the dowel pins were a little long so I needed to file them down a bit with a rasp. Always remember to round them over after adjusting so they fit into the holes problem free. Nothing worse then not being able to fit the pins into the holes after the glue is applied.
Here I have fit the drawer front in so you have an idea of what it will look like. I always like to maintain grain integrity. Looks great.
Then I put a kerf in the tenons to accept a wedge. Much later though.
About half way down the tenon.
And here I am gluing up the center structure only. No legs are permanently attached yet. The diagonal clamp is to pull it to square even though it bounced back after the clamps came off.
Frankly I’m not quite sure what this part is called. Though I am sure it has a name. So for the sake of posterity I simply call it the drawer innards.
The other day I got the mortice and tenon joints squeaky clean. That is fitting nicely on the cheeks. The tenons also fit well. So after that was complete I needed to cut some boards and fit them inside for the drawer runners to be attached. These boards will be installed with dowel pins.
Here I have the main structure clamped up so I can measure the correct distance between the inside of the drawers. This is the length of my runners.
Need to make sure the cheeks of the tenon seat properly…
inside and out.
When I have my measurement I cut some boards to length, square them up and put some dowel holes in them. I use 8mm dowels.
Then I do the inside.
Here is a quick shot of my dowel jig. I use the Joint Genie. I like this dowel jig a lot. I have even made entire pieces using only this.
It is a little expensive but it is the best dowel jig I have found.
Ready for installing.
Got a little more work done on this. To date I have fixed the back braces and the binding. Next up I have to redo the finish on the neck and repair some areas on the top plate where friction has worn the finish down to the spruce.
First I tried to blend the old finish with a new finish but it turned out poorly. So my next option was to take off all the finish and redo the neck in its entirety. Here I have taken off most of the old finish.
Then I applied some water based stain. I am using a mix of 50/50, black walnut and red mahogany. I read that this is the color strategy for most of Martins.
After the stain dried I gave it a light sanding with 600 grit paper. This knocked the raised grain down. I then applied a couple of more coats to darken it a little more.
Ug! The back braces are difficult at best. A very cramped space to work in and getting the glue under the braces without making a mess of things makes this a challenging fix. And all four of them to boot.
The fist step in this is to vacuum the dust out so you are only putting glue underneath the braces.
Next I rigged up a glue bottle with an extended spout so I could get into the tight spots.
Laying some tape down to keep the glue from getting all over the place.
Once I laid down a glue line I used a 0.015mm feeler gauge to shove the glue under the brace. Then I came in with an expanding clamp I made and put it in place. Here I have removed the tape to expose the squeeze out glue. These braces were done one at a time to keep clamp pressure on the top plate to a minimum.
Some small tools for a tight space. I used these Micro Leatherman to cut the tape.
Here on the back brace in the furthest reach I had to use an expanding clamp in the inside as well as these wide-mouthed F-clamps on the outside.
The next day after all the braces were fixed a tap tone on the back and top plate revealed no vibration. Also after each brace was done I checked to make sure the feeler gauge could not get under the brace.