In this step I will fit the back. That is I won’t glue it to the back plate to the body just yet. I will just fit it.
If you remember in the last post I mentioned that the body will be tapered. So that means there will be an arch. Before I did the bending and glue-up I made a pencil mark for my taper.
Here I have made a temporary jig to hold the sides in place as I plane down to the end blocks along my penciled taper mark. Make sure you plane with the grain run-out and not against it.
Here you can I have taken it down to the end blocks.
Now I have to do a bit of tailoring on the back plate so I clamp it in place…
and slowly flip it up to reveal the inside aligned center-to-center. Here I make a pencil mark for where the center spline meets the end block.
Then I take it off, make a cut with a hand saw and lift it away with a sharp chisel. This is my end-to-end placement register.
Then I glue on the kerfed lining. They break easily where the bend is tight so They have to be done in segments. Glue them on proud.
Back plate side done.
Now I use a radiused rail with some sandpaper on it to sand the proud kerfed linings level to the sides. The radius will ensure the arched back mates nicely to the linings.
Here I made some proper spreading clamps.
Now I am ready to mark where the braces need to be cut to fit neatly into the notched braces. The mark is made on the underside where the braces meet the body sides and on the body side.
Mark on braces is referenced from the outside, the cut will be about 2mm inside the mark to account for the side thickness.
Here I mark across the top of the linings where I will notch it out to accept the brace end using the mark I made on the body for my reference.
Brace ends cut to size with a hand saw and chisel.
The braces fit nicely into the notch. I had to be careful when notching it out as the wood is kerfed and soft.
The back plate fitted and ready for gluing… but not just yet.